So I stepped off the plane to be greeted by fragrant flora and fauna right in the airport causeways—there is ginger and plulmeria, it's just a delight. It has been a dream of mine to come to the North Shore ever since I saw the corny cult classic with the same title. So here I am living my dreams one at a time and it feels pretty darn good.
On my first day, by the time I got to the outrigger club near Diamondhead, it was windy with the trades. So I took a swim to the windsock and back in the 76 degree water. Oahu between the coral reefs the turtles the waterfalls and mountains has way more to offer than can be seen in six days. But let's make no mistake about it. I am here for one of the greatest gifts to humankind without which none of us would be here: the ocean and all her rage or glory. And she blessed me.
My hostess drove me from Honolulu to Haliewa on Thanksgiving day. This is where she wanted to surf. Hey, world-class break looked good to me. Known for its right. I was onto the smaller left as I didn't want to get in anyone's way and I'm goofy. The waves were a perfect 2-4' Hawaii and building. I was weary of the crowd at first but caught glimpse of a big chief Hawaiian Pop with his two sons and stuck with them and just took whatever waves they did not. This plan worked well for me. They were kind and respectful and I was extremely gracious and kind back. There were plenty of waves for everyone. Eventually I did get over and take a right, although probably not the biggest set wave but still fun still over my head.
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