Seeing Pipeline at 10' Hawaiian is awesome. I watched for hours; it's just so mesmerizing. There was at least one girl out and that was inspiring. That day I surfed 1-3 Diamondhead just to get wet. Saturday, I tried another world-class break, Makaha. I watched it for an hour before getting in just to see the currents entry and exit strategy, make sites as the swell was building and currents were strong. It was breaking so far out that on my short board I could easily surf the second or third tier and it was double overhead. These were by far the biggest waves I have ever surfed. And you know what? The bigger the wave, the easier it is to surf. Sure the sets are sweepers, but the water is warm.
My last day I had the blessing of being invited to a friend's home somewhere on the North Shore, where they had a break right out in front. It was a long paddle out over shallow reef. From the shore it looked like four foot waves but once in the water it was twice that and a left—my favorite! A makeable barrel. The reef was a little sketchy as it was my first time there. Only me and three other guys out; this is bliss. Even my dream was not this good. How lucky are we when life is better than our dreams? One guy was telling me a story then said, "I hope you're not getting on a plane tomorrow."
"Sadly, I am," I had to say. So they were coaxing me into another wave. I caught it pulled in and that one was not makeable; when I came up my board was broken. The other guy paddling back out just smiled and waved. I waved back. Aloha!
Wish You Were Here,
Annie
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