Robbie and Maria backed out. I knew I needed to cowboy-up, so without thinking too much about it, I pulled on my wetsuit and followed Jose out. Once in the water I realized the size of the surf. Sets were rolling in that were lifting me high above the ocean level. I was terrified and kept paddling towards the horizon. I wanted to get around to that little inside break I saw earlier. What I hadn't realized is that what the cute, fun break went right over some large rocks. I knew I needed to catch just one wave so that I could say that I had surfed at Raglan.
I sat far out on the shoulder and watched some stellar surfing from the locals. Some of the nice surfers encouraged me to move farther in. Finally, after watching me bob up and down for nearly an hour, Robbie and Maria came over to the shore and showed me exactly where to line up. I paddled over, a wave came, and I took it! I went right over a large rock and bailed. Somehow the surf gods were with me—I didn't get hurt and my board didn't get dinged.
The next morning the wind stayed down and the three of us paddled out at Manu Bay, a much friendlier spot. We had a blast on the long, rolling lefts. We had finally found the waves we had been searching for.
We are now headed for Australia. Fingers crossed we find some sunshine, warm water, and sick waves.
Love,
Rebecca
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