I am writing you from the island of Tavarua, Fiji. Can I tell you how beautiful it is here? The sand is soft and yellow, the water clear, and the world-renown surf break, Cloudbreak, is just a boat ride away.
So far there hasn't been much swell, but it makes it possible for li'l ol' me to get out there and actually catch some waves at Cloudbreak. Can you believe? Unfortunately, Restaurants, a well-know left that you can paddle to from the island, hasn't been breaking. There are some amazing surfers in our group. Sandy has put us all—men and women—to shame. She's totally inspired me to buy a shorter board when I get back home. The boat boys, Lono, Frog, and Jimmy, are amazing surfers as well (and did I mention, totally hot?). I have also seen some of the Fijians boat boys paddle out on foam boards at Cloudbreak and shred harder than anyone else. Must be nice.
The boats go out to Cloudbreak four times a day, at 6 AM, 9:30 AM, 1 PM, and 3:30 PM. We have had an awful lot of trade winds during our trip, so I find it's best to be on the 6 AM boat. This morning I set my alarm for 5:45 AM, which after a night of Hinano beers was a wee-bit early. I brushed the sleep from my eyes, put on my bikini, grabbed my board and literally ran to the boat. They are gnarly about only one thing on this island and that is that the boats go out on time and don't wait for anyone. Lono, the boat boy from Hawaii, is on the early shift, so he motors us out to the break. The winds are down and the waves are about head high. I toss my board over the side of the boat—I've been riding a 7'10" board, which is a bit long for Cloudbreak, but has served me well as the conditions haven't been too hectic.
This morning starts out great. The sun is just coming
1 2 3 next
Advertisement
Advertisement